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The Character of Provence (I)

Author Peter Mayle says this about Provence in his most recent book, Encore Provence: "I have the feeling that Provence is attempting to do the splits, with one foot in the past and the other testing the temperature of the future. But I don't see much in the way of fundamental change since the first time I came here more than twenty years ago. Life has not accelerated, but still dawdles along keeping time with the seasons. The markets still sell real food that has escaped the modern passion for sterilizing and shrink-wrapping. The countryside is still wild, and unscarred by golf courses, theme parks, or condominium colonies. It is still possible to listen to silence. Unlike so many other beautiful parts of the world which progress and ease of access have made noisy, predictable, and bland, Provence has managed to retain its individual flavor and personality. This can be delightful or exasperating, like a difficult, cantankerous old friend. But that's the way it is, with no excuses. Take it or leave it." We agree ... the character of the Luberon in particular sets it apart from any other place on earth. It is at once charming and provocative, and it will surely draw you back once you have made your first visit there. But try to do it when you can stay long enough to absorb some of the local color - a week will not be enough. And come armed with one of Peter's remarkable books, they are real treasures.

	Cane and berret in hand, a common sight in Provence. The Luberon range is visible in the background
	Every village boasts an intricately carved, moss-covered fountain in its center square. The moss marks the years
	Vineyards, both large and small, dominate the Provencal landscape
	The 'bories' of the Luberon are medium-sized frameless drystone constructions where the stones meet at the top. They were used chiefly as shelters, barns or stables from the 16th century onwards
	This is a bronze statue of Cadenet's favorite son, Andre Estienne, a 15-year old drummer boy who once managed a difficult river crossing for Napoleon's troops
	A remnant of the dreaded plague of centuries past
	Antique reflections of life in a petit village of the Luberon
	Village streets have a quiet serenity at mid-day when everyone is enjoying a long lunch and a Pastis or a bottle of wine
	Lavender grows in abundance in the northern reaches of Provence, and it has a special charm even when it is not in bloom. It just lies there in an orderly majesty...
	Poppies also dominate the Provencal landscape - like little red hearts waving in the wind - whole fields of them at every turn!
	Goats and cheese, well, must I say more?
	Backlit grapevines at every turn...
	Narrow village streets are not always that easy to navigate - here a baguette bearing motorcycle rushes under the arches of our rented 13th century villa
	Hardworking hands at rest finally, at Apt's Saturday marketplace.

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